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Wednesday 24 July 2013

Fashionable Dresse for Summer

Fashionable Dresse for Summer Biogarphy

Source(google.com.pk)
Queen Victoria ruled England and Ireland until her death in 1901- making the Victorian Era one of the longest in history. For the purpose of these pages, the Victorian Era will be broken into a series of periods- The Crinoline (1850-1869), First and Second Bustle (1870-1890), and Turn of the Century (1890-1900).
In 1861, Prince Albert died of typhoid fever leaving England with a Queen in mourning. For the next ten years, Queen Victoria lived in seclusion- leaving the country and her empire to the leadership of her Prime Minister. Her solemn nature coupled with her ideals of marriage, family, and social conformity formed the values we now associate with the Victorian Era.
An example of these societal expectations was exhibited in women's dress. An 1872 Ladies' Book of Etiquette describes appropriate dress for the following activities or events: receiving visitors, visiting others, travel, walking, going to market, shopping, visiting new brides, mourning, and going out in stormy weather. Each type of dress was distinguished by type of fabric, presence or absence of trim, and suitability for the named activity. Not comprehending and adhering to these rules was the epitome of bad taste (FIDM Museum & Galleries, Nov. 19, 2010).
The 1870s saw a great boom in the textile industry. In Europe, the labor intensive hand looms were replaced by more efficient steam driven power looms. The result was a larger supply of textiles at a greatly reduced price. Other new innovations included a cloth cutting machine which could cut 18-24 thicknesses of fabric at a time. New finishing techniques such as mercerizing (a chemical process which increases cotton fiber luster, strength, and ability to accept dye) resulted in longer lasting textiles. The use of synthetic dyes (first introduced in 1856) resulted in bold, vibrant colors- some of the first being mauve, magenta, violet, brown, black, and green.These new innovations, coupled with the introduction of the sewing machine in the 1840s, paved the way for both the mass consumption of textiles and the American mail order (or "ready to wear") industry of the 1During this period, The United States was trying desperately to recover from a bloody four year civil war. Unsuccessful attempts by the Federal government to reconstruct the South left a legacy of extreme poverty, political corruption, exploitation, and terrorism.
In the Eastern cities, issues with industrialization and immigration resulted in pollution and unsanitary living conditions. In 1870, the first apartment houses were built in New York City to relieve the overpopulation of tenant housing. By the mid 1870s, the Eastern cities were bursting at the seams with the massive influx of new immigrants.
In an effort to rebuild the country and recover both the progress of earlier years and the economic losses of the American Civil War, The United States embarked upon reuniting the nation via the railroad.
Rapid railway expansion westward connected secluded geographical outcroppings to the larger cities back East. Railroad construction also provided work for the masses of new immigrant labor flooding the Eastern cities and brought emigrant families to unsettled areas of the American West.(source unknown)Women's Clothing:1870-1875:
As more and more women began traveling, the oversized hoops of the Crinoline period became impractical. By the 1870s, the elliptical crinoline had all but disappeared- or rather "evolved" into a bustle (or a long narrow cage that rested at the back of the waist). In England, the bustle was referred to as a "dress improver" and in France, a tournure. However, from 1870-1889, the bustle would continue to evolve into a variety of different shapes and forms.
Photography is useful after the 1850's, but doesn't tell us everything we need to know. Written descriptions found in letters, diaries, novels and other sources are also valuable. Using a combination of all these sources is the best way to research dress.
We will look at some of the major style changes in Euro-American dress in the last 200 years. During most of this period, women's dress has been subject to greater change than has men's, (though men's dress was much more varied and fashion-sensitive earlier). We will discuss men's dress separately.
Prior to 1795 women's fashions had retained more or less the same silhouette, with minor variations, for about 300 years, defined by corsetting. Earlier, during the medieval period, dress had been semifitted, and favored a body silhouette in which the a round belly and full hips dominated, with neither the waist nor breasts a focus of attention until later. Beginning at the end of the 15th century, the fitted and corsetted bodice accentuated both waist and breasts, with massive long skirts in various forms completing the silhouette.

Fashionable Dresse for Summer