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Tuesday 23 July 2013

Fashionable Dresse

Fashionable Dresse Biogarphy

Source(google.com.pk)
The section dedicated to the 1970s and ’80s starts getting campy. A video shows the “cheongsam competition” of the Miss Hong Kong beauty pageant, complete with blue eye shadow, feathered hairdos and a young Maggie Cheung. (She came in second.)In the 1980s and ’90s, the dress picked up flourishes that, arguably, never should have been added to a Chinese gown, like shoulder pads and ruffles.
The last part of the exhibit celebrates the modern cheongsam and includes the lovely red and gold outfit worn by the Beijing Olympic hostesses in 2008. Of note is a Blanc de Chine gown with flowers in a diagonal pattern to show off the qipao’s distinctive structure. But some pieces by local young designers had so many embellishments that it was hard to discern any Chinese roots at all.
There were a few obvious gaps in this history of the qipao. Missing was Suzie Wong, the fictional Hong Kong hooker with the heart of gold. She was, for better or worse, one of the best-known wearers of the cheongsam. It would have also been nice to see segments on Shanghai Tang and Vivienne Tam, the two brands that have done the most for spreading the popularity of the Chinese dress internationally.
But the greatest omission is that of a catalog, although the museum is considering publishing one at the end of the year. The gowns and the archival materials came from a wide range of collections, both public and private. Given the effort it must have taken to assemble this exhibition, plus the rarity of comprehensive shows dedicated to Chinese fashion history, it would be a shame if there is no final document of it.
Dress sizing began with the advent of mass-produced clothing. Menswear was the first to be mass-produced and the first to have sizes. Women’s wear, with its greater variety of style and multiple fitting points, was not typically available in ready-to-wear until the end of the nineteenth century. Women’s styles changed, however, and by the 1920s they were perfectly suited to being mass-produced. Women’s clothing was never based on industry-wide size standards, which has presented problems to consumers since manufacturers began vanity-sizing in the 1930s.
“Vanity-sizing” is a popularly used term that refers to the ubiquitous practice of American clothing manufacturers of lowering dress size numbers to appeal to consumers’ vanity. My survey revealed that vanity sizing began in the 1930s. My data primarily consist of dress sizes in advertisements in Vogue magazine. I looked at one issue, usually March, from each year between 1922 and 1999.
The 1920s:Initially, all women’s clothing was sized according to the bust measurement. One of the first sizing innovations was to develop the misses size range, which morphed in the 1920s from a range intended for teens to a range intended for young to middle aged women. Many companies compromised by offering garments in both ranges, with 14 to 44 being the most common. Misses was originally size with a smaller bust-waist-hip ratio, and was numbered according to age (e.g. Size 14 years)
A few stores offered specialty size ranges. “Juniors” had even smaller bust-waist-hip ratios than misses, and were named by odd years (e.g. “size 15 years”). Other stores didn’t use a different size range, but did advertise to a specific size of customer. From at least the early 1920s Lane Bryant advertised clothing for “stout” women: “sizes: 39 to 56 Bust.” Bromley-Shepard Co. considered any bust size over 42 to be an “out” size, and charged $5.00 more accordingly. Another store, WeeWomen Inc., advertised “Coats and Suits for little ladies…Flattering fashion and fit for the short woman and miss.” Important to note here is that the line for short women, what we now call “petite,” was available in both misses and ladies ranges. Wil Wite Swimming Suits included a size chart in their advertisement from the April 15, 1922 issue of Vogue that called size 32 and 34 “flapper,” probably a cute substitute for Misses.

Fashionable Dresse